Wire, Wire Everywhere: Introduction to Beading Wire

10 August 2010

Author: Catherine Matthews-Scanlon

If you are just beginning your journey into making jewelry, there’s a lot to learn when it comes to choosing the right beading wire for the job.

Getting Started:
One of the first things to think about is what type of project are you planning on making.

• If you want to use beads in your jewelry piece, the type of beads you use will help determine what wire to choose.
• For example, freshwater pearls and other fine beads have a small hole, limiting the number of wire choices you have.  Because of this you can only use a thin wire with it unless you have a bead reamer to make the hole in the beads larger.
• Crystals and semi-precious stones have slightly larger holes drilled in them allowing you to use a thicker wire.
• Wood beads and certain hand-made beads tend to have larger holes in them so you can use larger beads and create beautiful wire wrapped creations.

Less is More:
As you learn about wire, there is one important piece of information to be aware of, 14 gauge wire is a lot larger than 26 gauge wire!  It’s kind of hard to wrap your head around – but think of it this way: a wire with a larger number, say 26 gauge; means a smaller gauge wire. A smaller number like 18 gauge means the wire is larger in diameter than the 26 gauge. The best way to understand this is to compare the actual wires!

Let’s take a look at the wire sizes and types you have available to you:

Wire Type/Size	Additional Information About This Wire
24 to 26 Gauge	This size wire is very small, and suitable for beads with a small hole, like pearls and perfect for wire crochet pieces. Use basic wire cutters to cut this wire.
21 and 22 Gauge	21 and 22 gauge wire is a good size to use with crystals and stone beads. Also good for making clasps, ear wires and eye pins. Use flush cutters and round nose pliers to cut and shape 21 and 22 gauge wires.
20 Gauge	This is a good gauge to use for making clasps, especially when using a dead soft hardness.  Use flush cutters and round nose pliers to work with these size wires.
18 and 20 Gauge	These two sizes are the most popular and most versatile for jewelry making.  Use flush cutters and round nose pliers to cut and shape these size wires.
14 and 16 Gauge	14 and 16 gauge wire is a large diameter wire, good for wire forms. Use this gauge to make jump rings and links for bracelets and necklaces. Use heavy duty flush cutters and round nose pliers to cut and shape 14 and 16 gauge wire.
Memory Wire	Memory wire is coiled tempered steel and is used to create all types of jewelry. Because it is so rigid it holds its shape nicely and is available in different sizes for bracelets, necklaces and rings. Use memory wire cutters ONLY when working with memory.
Beading Wire	This is a braided, twisted type of wire that is excellent for all beading projects. It normally has a protective coating on it so it’s a good choice for heavier beads. Use flush cutters to cut this wire to size
Precious Metal Wire	Fine Silver, Sterling Silver, Gold and Gold Filled are all perfect choices for most jewelry projects. Used most often for wire wrapping and making chains. These wires are also found in shapes other than round – look for half round for wrapping around wire to connect pieces together, square for wrapping cabochons and making bangle bracelets. Use standard jewelry making tools when working with precious metal wires.

If you are considering working with precious metal wire such as Sterling Silver, Fine Silver or Gold you should be familiar with the hardness of the wire. So let’s talk about how the wires can be classified by hardness. The hardness or softness of certain types of wire help to determine if you can use it for a particular project.

• Dead Soft Wire is very soft and is not recommended on jewelry that incorporates heavy beads or for pieces of jewelry that see heavy wear, as in a bracelet. This type of wire is best used in sculpted jewelry. You should not use Dead Soft Wire to make a clasp or jump ring.
• Half Hard Wire is harder than Dead Soft but softer than Full Hard Wire. This wire is more suitable for projects that use heavier beads and will maintain its integrity under stressful situations.
  
• Full Hard Wire is harder than Half Hard and is a good choice for larger beads and for wire wrapped jewelry. Use Full Hard Wire to make clasps and delicate wire wrapped pieces.

Being familiar with the styles, types, shapes and sizes of wire will help you when it comes to choosing a beading wire to make your next or first project. A project always moves along easier when you are working with the correct tools and supplies.  Happy Wrapping!